Randy describes his new clothes dryer setup that uses an attic solar collector to supply hot air for his dryer. This system saves the energy associated with heating air for clothes drying and also the energy required to heat or cool the air that a normally connected dryer pulls into the house as it vents air outside.
The dryer system works in conjunction with Randy's solar attic based heat collector that is used for space heating.
Dryers are a major energy user in homes. A Canada study shows that
dryers typically use 930 KWH a year to do 416 dryer loads (2.23 KWH per
load). Nearly all of this heat energy simply expelled outdoors
(wasted). In addition, as the dryer vents air outside, it
pulls fresh air into the house which has to be heated or cooled (depending on
season) to room temperature -- this can easily add another 300 KWH plus
per year. Its amazing to me that this very large energy sink does
not get more attention.
If you can't do Randy's solar dryer, here are some other options for saving clothes drying energy...
The details from Randy:
Here are some pictures on how I converted a used 110 volt Kenmore gas dryer I purchased at a garage sale for $35. It can now be used with a solar collector or attic heater. The the pictures below show how the normal dryer air intake was blocked and heated air from the attic solar collector was used instead.
I've tried two different methods of modifying the dryer so that it will take its input air from my attic collector. Each of the methods has its pros and cons, and one of them may fit your particular dryer and situation better than the other -- both are described in detail just below.
This method involves less work, and basically only involves a change to the back of the dryer to add a new air intake vent, and then sealing any and all openings in the dryer cabinet that will let room air leak into the dryer.
This method has the advantage that the dryer can be used normally when solar heated air is not available -- in this case it uses its normal internal heater to warm the air.
On the down side, the dryer cabinet radiates and vents heat to some degree when it is used with solar heated air.
I think that most people will want to use this method.
All of the details on how to do the method 1 dryer modification are here....
Method 2 involves revamping the inlet duct system such that the dryer gets its air supply from the attic via a new duct.
This method only works when solar heated air is available. So, it either requires waiting for the solar conditions to be good enough to provide heated air, or having this as a 2nd dedicated solar dryer.
For safety, electric heat elements, igniters and gas lines must be disconnected on the dryer with this method.
All of the details on how to do the method 2 dryer modification are here....
I used a 6 inch. insulated duct 23 ft. long to bring the heated air down from attic heater to the dryer. A 6 inch. to 4 inch. adapter was used at the vent attached to the dryer intake.
On both conversions I suggest a filter to keep out dust and fiberglass.
When choosing duct size, consider the length of the pipe, filter size. Larger diameter ducts will result in less pressure drop in the duct and more airflow.
In the following discussion, I assume that the dryer intake air will come from a solar air heating collector similar to mine... It may be possible for some climates and some attics to simply draw hot air directly from the attic through a filter. This would have the advantage of reduced pressure drop and more airflow for a given size duct.
The fan installed in the attic plenum works great. I picked it up at the local salvation army store for $20. It looks like new. It was installed in some kind of portable filter cart. The dryer and fan cord are plugged into a timer, which in turn is plugged into a switched plug strip next to the dryer. The timer insures that we don't leave the dryer on too long.
This shows the new intake connection for the dryer. The upper duct connects
to the attic air supply and provides all of the heated air needed for drying.
The lower duct is the normal dryer exhaust and is vented through the wall to the outside.
Note: this picture shows the hookup with the Method 2 dryer modification -- for Method 1, the
six inch duct just hooks directly to the 6 inch fitting you added to the back of the dryer.
The completed dryer with the attic air
intake duct installed.
The attic air intake duct.
Connecting the dryer air supply duct
to the attic collector plenum and blower.
The dryer exhaust vent through the wall.
The blower used to provide sufficient hot air
flow for drying clothes.
Timer to control the fan.
The dryer was installed in the garage, next to kitchen and laundry room door
The dryer is in! It is functioning better that I hoped.
The dryer was installed in the garage, next to
kitchen and laundry room door for convenience.
Dry clothes come out hot like a normal dryer.
Left side gage is dryer inlet temperature,
right side gage is attic collector temperature.
Loads of towels, sheets, pants are running at 90 minutes for a full
The booster fan is 110 volt and 1/15th hp. The cfm rating unknown.
Power and energy consumption:
Dryer alone power use 264 watts
Attic blower alone power use 141 watts
Total Power Use (fan+dryer) 396 watts
Energy used for one 90 minute dryer load 0.6 KWH
Cost for one dryer load at 10 cents per KWH 6 cents
This compares to 2.2 KWH for an average electric dryer load without counting the additional energy consumed to heat or cool outside air that a normal dryer pulls into the house. If one allows 1 KWH for heating or cooling infiltration air, then the total energy use per load for a conventional dryer load would be 3.2 KWH, or more than 5 times as much energy as the dryer supplied with attic air!
The measurements on the attic dryer were taken with a Kill-A-Watt
My home is shaded at 4pm, but there is enough stored heat to last until about 6:30pm. Shade will effect the drying schedule.
Something I had not thought about earlier, is that a dryer draws 100-150 cfm. When the dryer is operating in the home this causes the home to draw in outside air. If outside air is 17deg. or 100 deg., I not only pay to run the dryer, I also must now heat or cool the air drawn into the home. This is a hidden cost. Of course if the dryer is in a room with a door, you can crack a window, if you have one. But what do we usually do? We turn on the fan in the utility room to vent the heat and moisture. That will now draw even more air. If dryers were made to vent in air from outside the home, couldn't this prevent the draw from the home and the hidden costs associated with it?
If I had it to do over, I'd make these changes:
Here is a possible attic water heater design. This won't work in winter and will not drain back at night. The only way to drain it is if I kept each run separate and used air pressure to empty the lines, in winter. Still thinking. I like that it is low cost and uses few connectors and has lots of pipe in contact with the heat source.
I'm also thinking about a 2nd attic heat collector, as I have more roof area available.
The details on Randy's first attic solar collector are here...
<<<<< Gary, ------------------------------- FIX THIS SECTION
Just a thought. Something simple we might all do, that will make our clothes easier to dry. My washer control has an area marked high spin. Just by setting the finished load here and running again will certainly dry the clothes more. My setting has to be one click past the high spin spot or it will get the clothes wet again. try it yourself. I can not guarantee all washers have this feature of course.
What if the dryer vented into a cabinet. In the cabinet were racks where clothes or? were hung. This would then vent outside or where needed. In winter this would dry things you don't want in a dryer. The heat is used twice. Just a couple of ideas.
Some washers include a high speed spin cycle, which should be used to get as much water out of the clothes as possible before drying.
Randy July 14, 2011, July 31, 2011
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